Wednesday, January 21, 2015

Progress! (Part 1)

I know I haven't updated in forever, but I actually have been sewing!  I just haven't had much computer time for blogging, and then of course last night I had this post almost finished except for two pictures, which I tried to add during my break at work today, but my computer couldn't find the internet.  Then my browser died, and I lost the entire post.  :(  So we start again!

Here is what my dress looks like today:


And here's how we got here:  

12/9/14 - After dyeing my silk, I took apart my mockup and used the pieces I had draped as a pattern.  I cut it out on my kitchen table, which is not very big.  

Silk is rolled on a cardboard tube; cotton muslin is folded in front.  
I pinned all the pieces in place before cutting anything out, to make sure I was making the best use of my fabric.  I had to make a few adjustments as I went, but that's to be expected.

I let the fabric slide off the edge of the table as I rolled out more to get everything on, catching it on two chairs.
 The one paper pattern piece is from a Butterick pattern I bought years and years ago with the intention of one day using it for my wedding gown.


I have learned quite a bit about sewing and draping (not to mention historical accuracy) since then, and my vision of my dream dress has changed, obviously.  But I thought back to this pattern when I looked at the photos of my mockup with the train added.  I wasn't thrilled with the front apron part, so I dug the Butterick pattern out of my stash and used the pattern piece for the front drape in place of the Truly Victorian August Overskirt.  I liked the look of this better, as the drape is cut on the bias and there are no vertical seams.  




Back to cutting - I laid out all of the main gown pieces and the front drape of the train first, leaving the large train pieces for later.  


For the gathered side drape, I wanted a fuller panel than the one I had draped for the mockup, so I measured the length and cut (actually, ripped) the entire width of the silk.



12/16/14 - After cutting out the rest of the train pieces, I had about a yard and a half left of the full width of the silk, plus one long 18"-wide strip.

I took apart my lining and used the white cotton pieces to cut out my blue-dyed cotton muslin.  This would become the base foundation onto which I would build the gown.  I will still need the lining for, well, the lining.  :p


I added an extra three inches at the bottom of the skirt panels to give me enough for a hem.  I then used these pieces to cut out just the lower skirts so I could cover the cotton foundation with silk.  I ignored grainlines, since I had so little fabric to work with.  I wanted to get as much use out of the leftover silk as I could, and cover as much of the foundation skirt as possible.


Here is where I left off as of Christmas time:



I attached the silk to the lower skirt panels, and constructed them as one.  

Stay tuned for Part 2 tomorrow!

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